Escape to the Scottish countryside at Dunkeld House Hotel

The staff at Dunkeld House Hotel in Scotland know how to greet guests well: with a dram of whisky and a smile.

And it's a welcome I thoroughly appreciated, after taking planes, trains and automobiles (oh, and a tram) to get to this gorgeous country house hotel, just outside the picturesque Perthshire town of Dunkeld.

Dunkeld House Hotel, on the banks of the river Tay and once home to the Dukes of Atholl, makes an impression even before you step foot in the lobby: the entrance is at the end of a long driveway, and anticipation builds as you wind your way past massive lawns and thick wooded areas.

Subscribe to The Week

Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.

SUBSCRIBE & SAVE

Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.

Sign up

Once inside, the hotel feels more like a (huge) private house, filled with cosy nooks where you can curl up with a book or have a quiet conversation with friends. Stained glass windows add a colourful touch to the wood-panelled reception area, and the adjacent sitting room is charming, with dark toile wallpaper, leather seating, an antler chandelier and a fireplace just waiting for a roaring blaze.

Why stay here?

The hotel's 100 rooms and suites are bright and airy, putting a modern spin on the traditional look in the reception and sitting areas, with patterned headboards and large illuminated bathroom mirrors. Some rooms have special touches, too, like the brass bell above the boat-shaped bed in the Bothy Suite, the stunning balcony view from the Duchess Suite (pictured above) or the in-room, window-side, freestanding rolltop bath in the Birnam Suite.

I stayed upstairs in a spacious Superior Room, with a double bed and seating area. After dropping my bags, I curled up in one of the chairs and opened the windows, letting in the cool, fresh air. This turned out to be a wonderful people-watching spot: I spent several minutes watching guests arrive for a wedding, dressed to the nines in their finest kilts and gowns. Who needs to turn on the TV when there's a fashion show taking place down below?

There is a delicate balance when it comes to filling a hotel room with amenities: you need the right amount of necessities and fun extras to make guests happy but not overwhelmed. Dunkeld House Hotel does a fine job, with essentials like hair dryers and bottled water offered alongside Nespresso machines, comfy robes and slippers, and swanky toiletries. The locally made shower gel and shampoo were especially lovely, filling my roomy, tiled bathroom with a gorgeous fresh scent.

Things to do

Exploring the property is a must but carve out plenty of time: Dunkeld House Hotel sits on 280 acres of woodland, so there is a lot of ground to cover. As soon as I was settled into my room, I made a beeline for the path along the river Tay and started strolling, soaking it all in. The sun filtered through the trees, and all I could hear was the rushing water and chirping birds. It was so peaceful, and I could imagine how this scene changed with the seasons: always beautiful, but in a different way.

Nature is inescapable here, and the hotel offers guests several outdoor activities, including clay pigeon shooting, salmon fishing, quad biking, archery and a Land Rover offroad driving experience. Those who prefer some indoor pampering can book a spa treatment, many of which use seaweed-based products from the Scottish organic skincare range, ishga. Popular choices include the Hot Stone Massage and the Luxury Seaweed Bath. There is also a steam room, a sauna, a heated indoor pool (pictured above) and a hot tub.

Eating and drinking

There is a lift to whisk you to and from the ground floor but I recommend taking the grand staircase instead. Gliding down from your room is more fun and really makes it feel as though you are making an entrance, even if it is just for breakfast.

That's how I arrived every morning, refreshed from a good night's sleep and ready for some tea and a Scottish breakfast. The breakfast buffet, in The Stag brasserie, offers all kinds of eggs, bacon, sausage, toast, cereals, pastries, yoghurt and fruit. Everything is piping hot and tasty. There are also baskets of packaged snacks available, if you want to grab something for the road.

For lunch and dinner in The Stag, and snacks at the Hotel Bar, the chefs create seasonal menu choices from Perthshire produce. Fruit, vegetables, salmon, scallops, venison and beef are locally sourced and, yes, haggis is also an option – in the form of bonbons.

Afternoon tea in the Orangery (pictured above), a conservatory-like space filled with floral upholstery, potted plants, skylights, and windows out onto the lawn and river beyond, was a particular highlight. Small sandwiches, scones and an assortment of delicious sweet treats are presented on lovely serving plates and trays, along with the loose-leaf tea of your choice. This was a decadent meal, and I was happy to box up the leftovers to enjoy later in my room.

The verdict

This was my first trip to the Scottish countryside (and Scotland in general), and Dunkeld House Hotel made it an experience to remember. Credit goes to the friendly staff, who went out of their way to answer questions, make suggestions and offer a smile when passing by in the halls. It's easy to become so enthralled by the gorgeous scenery and comfortable accommodation that you forget the outside world exists. It's the perfect place for truly getting away from it all.

Catherine Garcia was a guest of Dunkeld House Hotel and Visit Scotland